Archive for the 'travel' Category

The world is at your command

Stanfords'If I ever need cheering up, then I go to Stanfords‘. This is the place where my dreams are formed, which might sound a little melodramatic, but it’s not far from the truth. There’s nowhere else that I know where you can go into the shop and stand on your street. Or your friend’s. Or another part of London, or the world, the Mariana, or so on, for the maps are not only at your fingertips but under your feet. The world is truly your lobster. And in perusing the incredibly well-stocked shelves one can be whisked to another world, or at least another country.

Having received the news that my government funding for the degree is likely to be the less exciting side of nothing, I’m bracing myself for the idea of another year doing something dull. But! This does mean that I can go on holiday in the autumn (at least one!), so the fun now is narrowing down the list.

1) St Petersburg - maybe in the future: visas look like a lot of work.

2) Berlin - a definite contender. I want to see the Stasi Museum, Potsdamerplatz etc., although I think this might be better for a longer trip than I have money for this year…

3) Tallinn - this has been on my list for a while. I like the idea of the soviet and the medieval next to each other, like in Prague, but I’ve heard great things about this place so I’m definitely up for a visit.

4) Budapest - the current frontrunner? Another I’ve heard great things about and it has lots of things going for it: flea markets, castles, a ‘House of Terror’, Turkish baths. It looks pretty great.

5) Krakow - another strong contender, a chance to use the Polish language I never learnt.

6) Bratislava - this one looks beautiful, just like Prague. Castles, cobbles, etc., I would be happy with this one.

7) Dubrovnik - the final choice (for now). Yet another UNESCO world heritage site, this one has the advantage of also being next to the sea.

This is not easy. Wikitravel is helping: go Web 2.0 up some Web 2.0 and improve it.

Fall down for, no reason

Each morning as I wend my way to Turnpike Lane tube station, I’m inevitably faced with a barricade of elderly Freedom Pass holders - this morning there were more than usual, poised with one eye on the clock (waiting for 9am, the earliest the cards can be used) and one hand tapping the card on the reader. When the big hand hits perpendicular, a wave of purple rinse and shopping bags floods through the gates and engulfs the platform.

Usually, I just manage to make it through while the crowd is milling, uncomfortably, on the station concourse like a group of urban meerkats. Today, they had edged closer than ever before and were crouched, today more like leopards in the chase than the chased themselves.

I often envy the old. As a man once sang, “the old folks are losers,” but he was wrong. I have to come to work today, to do the exact same thing as I did yesterday, while meaningless bickering rages around my ears. I have this to look forward to for the next forty years or so. If I was old, I wouldn’t have to go to work. I could get up when I wanted - although I think it may be a rule that one has to get up really early when one is old, even if one has nothing to do - I could swamp the tube station, I could hit children with walking sticks (probably) and I could bribe love out of relatives with biscuits. I think that’s a pretty good deal.

I should’ve stretched

It’s too late now. Only a post-match warm-down (in the shape of the best bath ever) would suffice, and suffice it did. Tonight was the hike, the voyage into the unknown for the terminally unfit; the walk home. Let me point out right now, I don’t live around the corner; Google Maps tells me I walked 7 miles, and I’m inclined to believe them.

There was a point when I didn’t think I’d make it, albeit before I’d started. Just the most inopportune moment for my beleagured Creative to breathe its last. But, motivated on to listen to the sounds London makes instead, one set off.

I’m hamming this up slightly, aren’t I?

Firstly up Chancery Lane, across High Holborn and on, to the red-hued pallasades of the regal Rosebery Avenue. Wending through the Clerkenwell/Farringdon borders is this serene and not-nearly-as-busy-as-it-could’ve-been boulevard; this part of Islington is the definition of pleasant. Now the walk is getting started, yesterday’s blister is flaring, the lack of exercise in the recent past is showing. Angel comes and goes, a barrage of free paperers to be swerved around, a plethora - really, an overindulgent number of Starbucks, a stream of clean-cut restaurants, each offering a different take on the established theme, catering to the type of people who visit Upper Street, the boeurgoisie not content with the good old same old. The unrelenting hipsterisation takes no prisoners, as the Old Parr’s Head of yore will testify; now a multitoned boutique to match the rest of the vicinity.

Upper Street proves no match for these legs, and takes in a pleasant parallel through Compton Terrace Gardens. The squirrels, having outfought Mark E Smith’s hedge trimmers, swagger through the gardens and anchor-shaped beds, pigeons and assorted avian friends fleeing at the animal equivalent of a nasty group of teenagers. That’s in contrast to the fairly polite and funny-looking group of people teenagers, possibly there unfeasibly early for Alexisonfire sideproject, City & Colour - find more here.

Highbury Corner (and more evening paper muggers (puggers?)) circumvented, it’s off to chase the wide expanses of pavement around Highbury Fields. The esoteric and enticing street names (Baalbec; Calabria) give the townhouses added charm, and as I stride past the overwhelmingly white population and their myriad pushchairs, I am starting to fly; gone is the stiffness, my steps are seven leagues long, I am flying. This is truly what life is for, to stride purposefully when all else meander, to face down one’s goals and take them at a run. I imagine I am caught up by angels, legs and ankles still wheeling, and I am touching down just once every dozen or so steps, and I am making progress, progress toward home, toward my goal, which has changed, the goal is to prolong the journey, to haze past the corner churches which figure so often in the novels I’m definitely going to write, to swan and shimmy past the admiring onlookers on Highbury Grove who pause in astonishment in the doorways of butchers shops and Italian delicatessens to gawp at my mighty walk.

I am on the downward slope! I am nearly here! Except I am not, I am barely halfway, and the hill descends from the esoteric and charmingly select Highbury into the considerably less salubrious Finsbury Park. On this walk, London’s contrasts are all too evident: even rounding Highbury Corner I am confronted with the choice of I-would-rather-kill-you-than-look-at-you Holloway Road (in the form of Staffie annd shaved head) and the more discreet Highbury Fields. I choose the latter.

From Stringrays and Highbury Barn I descend to the depths of Seven Sisters Road and swiftly on, over Finsbury Park. It’s the hills which have done it. My flying feet, those which could have leapt tall buildings in a bound are lead, they are tied to the ground my Lilliputian ropes so that they may barely move without dragging a horde of that tiny folk behind. Admittedly, I took probably the less direct route around the green, but I was gratified to see almost every sport I could think of being the centre of somebody’s life there in the Park. Football, skating, cricket, tennis - in Highbury Fields I saw a violent form of Tai Chi being worked out. So as I wandered past the ducks and the salad-munching geese I am weary, and I believe that all that is stopping me copping out is the lack of a direct bus. And so I plough on up Green Lanes, a bewildering display of jewellery shops, kebab shops, greengrocers and hidden delights. At the ever-dramatic Salisbury I turn to face the maze of terrace-lined streets of West Green. My way is hindered by the lack of footpath where I believed footpath to be, and thus my route takes an unexpected and stupid and avoidable diversion. No matter, in under two hours I am home and past the inexplicably bawling youth of Noel Park and into the comfort and delight of one’s own home.

My apologies to Dave Eggers for getting carried away.

Brazil paris Berlin… Wood Green

I love finding out new things about my local area. It’s easy to sit back and stay indoors and one’s life could be lived anywhere, exactly the same; but this is London, and nothing’s the same. Just the other day I found out that Henry VIII was a visitor to Tottenham (probably to see Spurs not buy Terry ‘enry). And just now I’ve researched the ever-so-slightly brilliant fact that Wood Green’s newly-discovered (to me) cultural side has a long and distinguished history of counter-culture and revolution. The excellent 1968 & All That describes, firsthand, the occupation of Hornsey College of Art in 1968 by students - though the demonstration started at the Crouch End Hill site, it soon involved students from across the wide-ranging campus, including what is now Wood Green’s own Chocolate Factory, occupying the college and subsequently being locked out for six months. This sort of thing literally never happens on one’s own doorstep; Wood Green’s hardly a hotbed of dissident action these days, nor a culturally-vibrant citadel of art (despite what the signs would have you believe). But I call it home and I love it, so I’m going to take what I’ve got.

Now: off to my macaroni.

This post was brought to you by: well, not technically by, but involving: well, not technically involving, but related to the beautiful Big Green Bookshop, more specifically news of an author event at the shop on 15th May where Lisa Tickner will be reading from her new book on the subject. I might just be there.

You’m alroight babs?

Selfridges/Bullring

And so another baseless prejudice is quashed as I spent half the weekend in sunny Birmingham. For, although the people are funny of speech and the public transport is lacking in tube, still it’s an actually attractive city. It’s clearly seen cast regeneration of late - the Bullring, the Selfridges, various bits on the canal; I’m still not sure it’s worthy of its Venice of the Midlands tag but it’s an attractive enough place. Lot’s of redbrick buildings (which I do like), and the Bullring is this vast and confusing morass of bodies, outsized pipework, and wide, cordoned staircases.

I spent part of Friday evening discussing the malaise of the shopping mall with a genuine, bona fide Brummie, albeit one obsessed with Camden Town. The council’s surreptitious plans to turn the Stables into a mall generated much outrage, and rightly so. These places are, in theory, good for (big) businesses, good for residents and good for London but in fact it would take away a huge part of what makes Camden so unique, and in doing so destroy the vast majority of reasons to go there. If I want a huge selection of vintage football shops, some stickered antique luggage or some world food, then I go to the Lock and work my way through. If I want a huge Next and a Julian Graves I can go to Bluewater. Or Lakeside. Or Enfield, or Covent Garden, or even Tottenham, or a million and one other faceless, soulless shopping centres. What’s the point of putting one in the last remaining good bits of one of the last remaining good bits of London? I ask you. Planners these days.

Anyway, so it appears Camden County Council are beyond suspicion for the fire there - I’m still all about the conspiracy: considering that this post makes me an official internet conspiracist will show you how dedicated I am to this cause. Although, as with most dedicated internet conspiracists, action which requires me to get off my blogging-seat(tm) will cause immediate abandonment of issue and/or complaint.

Anyway, shopping centre BAD. Although I didn’t hate the Bullring.

Home, where my music’s playing, home, where my love lies waiting

And so, with a bump, I’m back to reality. At least, a mildly hallucinogenic, sleep-induced traumatic reality. This is a place in which I often find myself on ordinary days anyway, so I’m quite prepared for this non-nightmarish hinterworld. Everything’s different in London. Or the same as they were before, but different from what I’ve been used to. Gone are the cars that all look a little bit the same. Gone are the East Coast accents. Gone are the huge boulevardish Manhattan avenues and the insanely vast structures that compose that iconic skyline. Gone is the detached, Calvin & Hobbes suburbia and the accompanying parade of chains and local restaurants. Gone are the wide lanes to fit wide vehicles and the drains with steam rising up and the tenement blocks with fire escapes and the yellow cabs and the snow on the ground and the trolleys and the coconut palms and the food covered in sticky and the pace of life which makes London seem relaxed and the taxi drivers named ‘Juice’ and the highways and expressways and freeways and routes.

Welcome home to sunny Wood Green, a ragtag accumulation of dirt and cheap wealth that I call home. And I’m happy to be here.

*papal ground kiss*

Welcome to Bah-ston

Today I went to Cambridge, MA. Heck yes. I love that I have to specify places with two extra letters now. On Saturday I’ll be going to NYC, NY. Acronym City!

 Actually, it was pretty nice. Sort of like Oxford or, indeed, Cambridge UK, the Mass. version is riddled through with world-beating university. In this case, Harvard. While it is therefore, like most American stuff, a knock off of something older, it’s still a great little town with some cute shops and particularly some excellent bookshops. My favourite purchase was this:

You may well snigger, but to me, this is blinking great stuff. I’m such a nerd sometimes. I guess yer lass at Going Underground would understand, if noone else.

I also discovered the Peet’s Coffee chain. This is a step up from the frighteningly ubiquitous Starbucks, in that it actually serves nice coffee. The tea leaves a little to be desired but the java is strong, dark and tasty. They also seem to care about the coffee, which is an unusual step-up from the corporation-centred, lifestyle-domineering latter. Star, bucks, money runs the universe, man. It’s still not a patch on the delights of Old Compton Street’s Old Algerian Coffee Store or the staggeringly wonderful Monmouth coffee company, but it’s not bad. It makes a change from seeing that green logo on every block: there’s no competition here at the same level as Costa or Nero in the UK, which is a shame - especially as Nero’s coffee, particularly, is considerably better than ‘bucks’.

But seriously Americans, learn how to make a cup of tea. Even at Peet’s, Newton Center, it was a bitter, unpleasant experience. Tea should be strong and bold, an unsubtle, powerful brew. It shouldn’t be frou-frou - if you want the option to choose from over 30 different varieties, then you should also offer simple, builders strength tea in a polystyrene cup, not a paper one. It’s just math, people!

Architecture in Beantown

I’m staying in a hotel designed for relaxation. It has carefully selected colour schemes and haikus everywhere. Yet there’s a big old noisy fan in the corner. Fatal flaw! I’ll be used to it soon…

Today was spent in Boston - arriving, driving, talking, viewing, eating. It’s a good town! I’ve decided Custom House is my new favourite building in the world - a huge, random, olde-looking tower in the middle of the city. It’s a real old/new place - different to London where the last 200 years are all represented, it’s a combination of colonial, turn of the C.20, and brand new skyscrapers. A heady mix, no doubt, but beautiful, especially at night. I approve.

I also drove on the other side of the road for the first time today, and with a SatNav for the first time. A wealth of new experiences, to be certain. In America, I have to admit, they do drive on the right side. Back home, however, we drive on the correct side - for some reason, this way round makes no sense. I didn’t die though, which was nice.

Take a break, driver 8

Ocean Drive, Miami Beach

So, it turns out, America is weird. This city of Miami, for example, I kind of love it a bit but at the same time I don’t understand it in the slightest.  Things I now love:

  • Cuban-style coffee
  • Air-conditioning
  • Retro cars and motorbikes
  • Coffee-maker in room

 Things I’m getting used to:

  • Driving on the opposite side (although it still feels precarious).
  • No tea available
  • Tipping (an arcane art)

 Things for which it’ll take a little time:

  • Everything’s covered in sauce
  • Jobs are divided by race far more than in London
    • Manual jobs – black people
    • Service jobs – Hispanic people
    • Anything-collar jobs – white people
  • When to cross the road?

 Things I’ll never be able to do:

  • Hail a taxi, apparently.

I’m enjoying this city of gleaming, roaring motorcycles, scorching March’s, pavement cafes, Cuban coffee and spotless tans. I ended up choosing from Ocean Drive’s myriad of restaurants on the basis of the music blaring from the PA - New Order good, Bob Marley better, REM’s Driver 8 - the definite winner.

Laters

In about 45 minutes I’m heading off to Heathrow for possibly the longest 10 days of my life. Great as this trip to America is (and it certainly is…), there’s an innate part of me that will miss certain people while I’m gone, and miss certain things, and also can’t be bothered.

But! I’ve never been the moribund type, so I’m looking forward to it. Those who will be missed know who they are, and the point has already been made. So chocs away, ‘ave at ‘em, etc., Simone’s off to ‘merica!

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